THE SAIGON BLUES
It feels strange to write an article about something we didn’t fully enjoy. One of the rules of Hedo and of our maps is not to criticize, but simply to show what we love: the places we enjoy, the chefs we admire, and the wines we appreciate.
After traveling through Vietnam from north to south, discovering this wonderful mix of street food, stylish spots, a youth brimming with energy, and breathtaking natural beauty—Dalat, Da Nang, Ha Long Bay, the almost prehistoric paradise of Ninh Binh, and then Hanoi, for which we created a map packed with extraordinary addresses—down to the Mekong Delta and the unreal paradise that is Phu Quoc Island, we saved the most cosmopolitan city for last: Saigon, or rather Ho Chi Minh City.
Let’s start with the premise that this city is undeniably a huge mess. If the chaos of markets, cafés, and street food has its own kind of charm, the chaos of motorbikes, blaring horns, buildings in poor condition, and broken sidewalks has far less of it.
And yet, we miss it.
It’s as if that constant hum has become part of us now, and here in our offices, apartments, and street intersections, all this silence fails to fill us completely. And so our minds wander—through the fruits of Ben Thanh Market, where we see women boiling and cracking crabs, men proud of their catch, everything wrapped in that background buzz that keeps us company in our sterile quiet.
We see ourselves again on the wonderful rooftop of Anan, tasting a surprising yet successful nuoc mam ice cream. We’re back to devouring delicious pho, melting banh mi, and stir-fried morning glory as if there were no tomorrow.
We see ourselves again in a taxi heading to District 2, eager to discover the modern cuisine of Little Bear, or sitting at the counter of Drinking & Healing, home to the best cocktails in the city.
But above all, we see ourselves drinking a beer and smoking a cigarette, perched on a plastic stool on the street, in the suffocating heat, with swollen feet immersed in delicious aromas of coriander, garlic, and spices—and disgusting ones too: exhaust fumes, piss, and burnt plastic.
This is Ho Chi Minh City exactly: a roller coaster for the nose, the eyes, the skin. A constant up and down of conflicting emotions that makes it hard to love completely.
When people planning a trip to Vietnam ask us what to avoid, we answer: Saigon.
But, when we ask ourselves which place we miss the most in Vietnam, the answer is always the same: Saigon, and its unique hum, our asses planted on a plastic stool.
